Saturday, November 14, 2020

Shimla 1

The journey from Amritsar to Chandigarh took 4 hours by train and we then had a further 4 hour minibus ride up into the foothills of the Himalayas.  Unfortunately just outside Chandigarh our vehicle was clipped by another whilst overtaking us - goodness knows how, it was a dual carriageway.  Luckily no one was hurt and the vehicle was still driveable but it took a little while and lots of shouting before we could continue on our way

Shimla is an old "Hill Station" dating back to the days of the British Raj, when the wealthy would retreat to the hills in the summer months to avoid the oppressive heat in Delhi.  Shimla is built on 7 hills and although this photo doesn't really show the steepness, it really is an impossible collection of buildings, built one on top of another.  Our hotel, Clarke's, is situated on The Mall but there is no vehicle access, so you have to go by lift then walk about 200 metres.


Fortunately our guide organised porters for our luggage.





Built around 1898, the story of Clarke’s Hotel dates back to the 1920s, when Ernest Clarke arrived as Manager of the then Cecil Hotel. Both Clarke and his wife Gertrude had a keen eye for talent and took a great liking to the honesty and hard work of young Mohan Singh Oberoi, the front desk clerk at that time.  On returning to holiday in England, Clarke handed over the management of the hotel to Oberoi. During their absence, he made such a success of the hotel that they decided to sell it to him upon their permanent return to England. After five years’ continuous hard work, Oberoi became the sole and absolute owner of the hotel, and subsequently changed the name to Clarke’s, in tribute to Ernest Clarke.  Clarkes is one of Shimla's oldest hotels and was the launching pad for the extraordinary journey of triumph and accomplishment that marked the life of the legendary hotelier: Rai Bahadur Mohan Singh Oberoi.  Nowadays, Clarke’s Hotel resembles a grand colonial bungalow, with all the elegance and grace of the British Imperial era. The 32 rooms and suites are tastefully appointed and some of them offer spectacular views of the mountains or Shimla, unfortunately the view from the lounge was spoilt a few years ago when the High Court of Justice was given a new home.


My room is lovely and very big.  As I was to discover, at night they surround the bed with radiators and place hot water bottles in the bed -  most welcome, as it is very cold and there are still large heaps of snow around.


Working down from the highest point, the main areas and their notable features are:

The Ridge
A popular promenade and busy social area with views across to the snow capped Himalayas.  Ceremonial and state functions are often held here.  Christ Church is located just behind.


Scandal Point
The intersection of The Ridge and The Mall.  The Umbrella-like thing commemorates a British Lady eloping with an Indian Maharaja which resulted in him being banned from the area and setting up his own summer capital in Chail (45 kms away)



The Mall
Over 7km in total but the main upmarket shopping area is just about 1km long.  There are various other notable buildings along here

The Town Hall


This guy could have been my Dad from the way he dressed.



Fire Station


Post Office


Lower Bazaar
Situated below the main Mall area and a warren of tiny streets offering cheaper versions of goods and catering more for locals than tourists.






Most street food seems to be fried, probably in ghee (clarified butter)




The Ganj 
Where the town's wholesale grocery trading takes place.





I felt totally safe wandering around the street; a few stared at me, but mostly I was ignored.  The main danger would seem to come from the wildlife.


This one looks a picture of innocence though!