Our final excursion in Amritsar was a 28km drive to the border between Indian and Pakistan to witness the Wagah Border Ceremony - the daily spectacle of the closing of the border at sunset - which I'd first seen on a Michael Palin TV programme many years ago.
Some reports in the West try and make out it is a show of India's military might and a bullying of its comparatively small neighbour Pakistan (in fact Mr Wolf was so worried this was the case that initially he didn't want to witness it). Maybe this was once true, but now it seems to be a good humoured daily ritual, enjoyed by participants and observers on both sides.
Security is very tight and we had to present ourselves at the Foreigner's Entrance well before the scheduled start (1 1/2 hours before sunset). Our guide, being Indian, couldn't accompany us through but he gave us instructions where to sit and, probably more importantly, exactly where to meet him again after it was all over as thousands of people would be leaving at the same time. Some Indian nationals were allowed to line the road but others and us visitors had to sit in one of the banks of concrete seating along one side. These are quite a way away from the action but the atmosphere is amazing; like pre FA Cup at Wembley with music being played and announcements to whip the audience up.
There are a lot of military personnel around, keeping a close eye on the crowd, but their manner is very friendly and as you can see this chap was very "happy" to pose for a photo.
You have to remain seated and if you do try and stand up, to get a better photo, you are quickly told to sit down which is fair. Luckily I'd positioned myself right at the front so had a good unobstructed view most of the time, albeit from a low perspective.
Both sides wear these beautiful headdresses which remind me of napkins from a fancy restaurant. The Indian Army seems to have both turban non-turban versions.
There is probably an official
explanation somewhere as to what goes on, but this is my take on the
ceremony: rather like Monty Python's Ministry of Silly Walks, groups
of soldiers parade up and down performing increasingly unmilitary like
manoeuvres like high leg kicks and the closer to the border the sillier, more
involved/difficult they become. They are seen as a form of a challenge by
the opposing army who try and emulate or better the movement.
Male and female soldiers lined up waiting their turn.
I don't know if this is clear enough but the arrow is pointing to the chap's foot - way over his head.
As the
sun sets, the iron gates at the border are opened and the two flags are lowered
simultaneously. What I could see of the Pakistani flag being lowered in the distance.
But I did have a very good view of the Indian one.
The flags are folded and the ceremony ends with a retreat that involves a brusque handshake between soldiers from either side, followed by the closing of the gates again.
Sure enough, as soon as it was over, everyone tried to leave at the same time.
On our way back to the minibus, this guy was one of many thoughtfully selling food (as I've said before - any time, any place, anywhere - in India you can get street food).
